On the road again … This time – to the “Unknown” // Spet na pot … tokrat v »neznano«!

With a few friends, we plan to go to India and it will be my second visit to the subcontinent in the year 2015. This time we are heading to Arunachal Pradesh which is absolutely not the India that most visitors know. Mainly because it’s a remote, restricted area where special permits are required and the majority of tourists are discouraged by these long, administrative procedures. For us, of course, such things add a touch of special excitement to a trip and I am really looking forward for this particular expedition. The main objective is of course photography and I would like to continue the project of taking portraits of endangered ethnic groups which we started this year with a fellow photographer, Katja Bidovec, in Ethiopia.
Arunachal is the last remote and isolated territory in extremely populated India. It is squeezed between the borders of Bhutan, China and Myanmar. This is the region where river Siang, later called the mighty Brahmaputra, descends from the Himalayan heights through the gorge that haven’t really been explored. These hard to reach territories give shelter to the last animistic ethnic groups of India who have absolutely nothing in common with the rest of the Hindu culture that prevail in India. Arunachal Pradesh is also one of the last strongholds of the rare and endangered animals like snow leopard, Bengal tiger, gaur or mysterious takin who share last  primeval rainforests with the once notorious headhunters of  Wancho, Konyak and Nocte tribes. Together with the ethnic groups of Papua New Guinea and Irian Jaya, they represent the most elaborate ethno-linguistic social system of Asia. Unfortunately this remote piece of land has recently become the playground of overactive Catholic missionaries who are trying to convert the last animistic tribal groups to Christianity by forcing them to abandon their traditional beliefs, as well as several multinational companies who are trying to exploit the natural riches of this untouched part of India. Arunachal is probably one of the last territories where one can still experience the excitement of early adventurers and explorers like Sven Hedin, Nikolaj Przewalski or David Livingstone. With the great respect for the early explorers we would like to add our humble contribution by exploring the last barely known world’s areas and the last traditional tribal societies of the planet that may vanish before we even get to know them well.
So, the basic idea is to photograph people in a portable studio which enables uniform studio-quality lighting regardless of the position of the sun and the available light. It is a kind of homage to Edward S. Curtis native American photos. For this purpose, we’ll use a mobile black tent and two studio off camera strobes to light the portraits in a very precise way. We want to create the same effect as if they were shot in a real photographic studio, although this will be carried out in a very remote place where conditions are harsh and available resources are very basic.  I see this work not only as a photographic project but also a sociological and anthropological contribution for generations to come. The people on the photos will be selected randomly and we won’t add or remove anything from their dresses, outfits or objects that they will be carrying with them at the time.
I am leaving to India with my very good friend, anthropologist and good photographer Mare Lakovič with whom we’ve already traveled to some of the remotest African wilderness in southern Ethiopia.

Z nekaj prijatelji se letos že drugič odpravljam v Indijo. Tokrat v Arunačal, ki je popolnoma drugačna Indija od tiste, ki jo pozna večina obiskovalcev. To pa seveda tudi zato, ker so za vstop v ta predel Indije potrebna posebna dovoljenja, kar je zagotovo še dodaten razlog, da je turizma zelo malo ali pa skoraj nič. Seveda pa jaz v take dele sveta odpotujem najraje in tudi tokrat se resnično veselim decembrske poti. Še posebej ker v tem delu sveta še nikoli nisem bil; potujem torej v »neznano«. Odmaknjenost in malo bolj zahtevne razmere poti še prispevajo k dodatni razburljivosti in prav na tem mestu bi se na hitro zahvalil še prijateljem s podjetja North Face in Iglu Šport, ki mi bodo priskočili na pomoč z opremo, saj so himalajske doline v decembru lahko zelo zahrbtne. No, seveda pa so glavni razlog za tako pot fotografije in tokrat želim nadaljevati projekt iz Etiopije, ki sva se ga letošnjega februarja lotila s fotografinjo Katjo Bidovec.
Pot v »neznano« je torej Arunačal; zadnja divjina Indije, skrita med skrajne, vzhodne obronke Himalaje med Butanom, Kitajsko in Burmo, območje kjer se Siang, kasneje mogočna Brahmaputra prebija iz tibetanskega višavja skozi še zmeraj neraziskan kanjon v nižinske pragozdove Assama. Nedostopne gore in deviški pragozdovi dajejo zatočišče zadnjim animističnim ljudstvom Indije kot tudi redkim ogroženim sesalcem kot sta dimasti in snežni leopard, bengalski tiger ter takin ali skrivnostni gaur. To je Indija, kjer so Hindujci še zmeraj redki in ne preveč dobrodošli glede na grenke zgodovinske izkušnje. To je tudi Indija, kjer je med neobvladljivimi plemenskimi skupinami še vedno zelo živ spomin lova na človeške glave. To so ljudstva Wancho, Konyak in Nocte, ki pripadajo ljudstvu Naga, ki s sorodnimi sino-tibetanskimi ljudstvi tvorijo, poleg Nove Gvineje, najbolj raznolik etno-lingvistični sistem Azije. Danes ta predel žal postaja tudi raj za razne dušebrižne pokristjanjevalce, ki zadnjih animistov indijskega podkontinenta ne pustijo pri miru, pa tudi potencialni plen korporacij, ki hlepijo po surovinah, ki se tu skrivajo. Arunačal je eno redkih območij sveta, kjer lahko še podoživljaš občutke zadnjih raziskovalcev belih lis sveta kot so bili Sven Hedin, Nikolaj Przewalski ali David Livingston. Poskusili se jim bomo pridružiti … 🙂
Do odhoda je samo še pol meseca in z antropologom, prijateljem in že večkratnim sopotnikom Maretom Lakovičem že pripravljava načrt …  Kam in kako bomo potovali, predvsem pa kaj bomo doživeli pa zapišem v kakšnem blogu. Do takrat pa še cel kup priprav in seveda dobronamerni dogodek v Cankarjevem domu »Svet je lep, le mi smo različni. Svet kot ga živi Arne Hodalič«.

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